Insects for Chameleons
Staple insects, which can be fed regularly, include dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, superworms, crickets, silkworms, and butterworms. Treat insects, like hornworms and waxworms, should only be offered occasionally, no more than twice a week.
Feeding Schedule
Feed baby chameleons twice daily, juveniles once daily, and adults once every other day. Always source feeder insects from reputable suppliers, as wild-caught bugs can carry diseases and parasites.
Gut-Loading and Supplements
Gut-loading, or feeding nutritious foods to feeder insects, is crucial for your chameleon's health. Use commercial gut-loading products or offer feeder insects the same vegetables you would provide your chameleon. Additionally, supplement your chameleon's diet with calcium, calcium plus D3, and multivitamin powders, but avoid using more than one supplement per day.
Safe Fruits and Vegetables
Vegetables and fruits can enhance your chameleon's diet, even though they are not mandatory. Offer safe options like arugula, collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, carrots, cucumber, squash, and sweet red peppers. Fruits like apples, blueberries, grapes, mangoes, and strawberries can be given sparingly, once a week at most.
Introducing vegetables and fruits early in your chameleon's life can help them accept these foods more readily. Remember that these should only be offered occasionally and in small amounts.
Hydration
Chameleons rely on licking water droplets from their enclosure for hydration. Mist their habitat a couple of times per day or use a commercial dripper to provide a steady source of water. Proper hydration is essential to prevent health issues in your chameleon.
Conclusion
In conclusion, maintaining a healthy and diverse diet for your veiled chameleon is crucial to ensure its well-being and longevity. By providing a variety of insects, occasional treats, and safe fruits and vegetables, you can support your chameleon's nutritional needs. Remember to follow the appropriate feeding schedule and supplement routine for their age, and always offer clean, fresh water through misting or a dripper. By prioritizing your chameleon's dietary requirements, you can ensure that your vibrant pet thrives and continues to captivate reptile enthusiasts for years to come.
Feeder Insects for Leopard Geckos:
Superworms: These worms provide a well-balanced diet with a high fat content. They should be fed alongside less fatty staples, like dubia roaches or black soldier fly larvae, to prevent obesity.
Mealworms: Mealworms are an affordable and easily accessible feeder insect, but their high chitin content can cause digestion issues. Be cautious when feeding mealworms to your leopard gecko.
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Nutrigrubs): These larvae are a great source of calcium and can replace powdered calcium supplements without D3. However, their small size may make them less appealing to some geckos.
Crickets: Crickets are a popular and nutritious option for leopard geckos, but they can bite and are difficult to maintain due to their short lifespan and odor issues.
Hornworms: Hornworms offer high levels of protein, calcium, and nutrients. They can also help with hydration but may cause runny stools if fed in large quantities.
Silkworms: Silkworms are a healthy and low-fat option, with high protein and calcium content. They also contain a mild analgesic, serrapeptase, which can help with pain relief and calcium absorption.
Waxworms: Waxworms are a good source of protein and calcium, but their high-fat content makes them suitable for occasional feeding only.
Butterworms: Butterworms provide a good balance of protein and calcium, with lower fat content than waxworms. They can be difficult to find and have a short lifespan, making them a less convenient option.
Supplementation for Your Leopard Gecko:
To ensure your leopard gecko's health, it is crucial to supplement their diet with calcium (both with and without D3) and a multivitamin. Be cautious not to over-supplement, as this can lead to health issues. The recommended supplementation schedule is as follows:
Conclusion
In conclusion, providing your leopard gecko with a varied and nutritious diet is essential for their health and happiness. By offering a mix of feeder insects and appropriate supplements, you can ensure your gecko thrives and enjoys a long, healthy life.
Overfeeding Chameleons have different nutritional needs depending on their age. While they require frequent feeding during their first year, their appetite decreases as they mature. Overfeeding can lead to selective eating, as a hungry chameleon is less likely to be picky. Adjusting their feeding schedule can help motivate them to eat a variety of foods.
Excess Insects Offering too many insects in a single feeding session can also contribute to pickiness. Ensure that you're providing the appropriate portion size for your chameleon, typically 3-5 insects slightly smaller than their head, for an adult.
Overindulging in Treats While it's fun to give treats, excessive high-fat treats can cause your chameleon to lose interest in healthier options. Limit treats to once a week and focus on maintaining a diet rich in low-fat foods to prevent obesity and related health issues.
Limited Diet A monotonous diet can lead to nutritional deficiencies and disinterest in eating. Introduce a variety of insects and food items, such as snails, silkworms, dubias, discoids, grasshoppers, and black soldier flies. Keep in mind that individual preferences may vary, so if your chameleon consistently refuses a particular food, try offering something else.
Illness Chameleons are experts at hiding their discomfort or illnesses. A sudden change in appetite could indicate an underlying health issue. Check your pet's environment for potential issues, such as improper temperatures, expired UVB lamps, or other husbandry concerns. If you can't identify the cause, consult an experienced reptile veterinarian for an examination.
Conclusion
By understanding the reasons behind your chameleon's pickiness and addressing them accordingly, you can help promote a healthier and more diverse diet for your pet.
Bearded dragons have a powerful jaw structure, with teeth that are part of their lower skull. They use their strong jaws for biting and chewing food, and when needed, to kill prey. The strength of their bite means that if they bite you, it can be painful. However, the pain level depends on the dragon's size. A smaller dragon's bite may feel like a pinch and not draw blood, whereas a larger dragon's bite can be more painful and cause a wound.
While their nails aren't used to scratch intentionally, they can accidentally scratch you if they become too long, potentially causing a wound. It's important to disinfect any injuries caused by their nails, as bacteria may be present.
Bearded dragons are docile and gentle creatures that typically only bite as a last resort in self-defense. To avoid provoking a bite, ensure you handle your dragon gently and are mindful of how you pick them up and hold them. If you are bitten and sustain a wound, disinfect it and treat it like any other wound, seeking medical advice if necessary. Although their bite contains a mild venom, it poses no harm to humans.
]]>In the wild, bearded dragons enter brumation when food becomes scarce, and temperatures drop. However, in captivity, where these conditions can be controlled, brumation is not necessary. Despite this, many dragons still go through brumation due to their natural instincts or external factors such as low tank temperatures or insufficient food.
Brumation can last from several days to six months, though such lengthy durations are rare. The duration of brumation depends on the dragon's husbandry (lighting, heat, etc.) and its individual characteristics.
As a bearded dragon owner, it is essential to understand that brumation is a natural process. Even in captivity, dragons can sense the seasons, although to a lesser extent than in the wild. Brumation is more likely to occur during colder months. However, if your dragon seems to enter brumation during warmer periods, check the temperatures in its enclosure:
If your bearded dragon is experiencing brumation for the first time, ensure it undergoes a wellness check and fecal exam by a licensed vet. Dragons under nine months old are less likely to enter brumation since they have not yet established a proper cycle. Signs of brumation include sluggishness, increased sleep, decreased appetite, and irritability. Since these signs can resemble symptoms of illnesses, it's crucial to consult a vet if you're unsure about your pet's brumation cycle.
Conclusion
During brumation, dragons should not lose significant weight or become dehydrated. Maintain their regular lighting schedule and provide a hide for them to escape light when needed. Check on your dragon regularly, and offer food and water once a week, but remember to be patient and minimize disturbances, as this can be a stressful time for both you and your pet.
Terrestrial isopods, which are common in the exotic pet trade, thrive in cool, moist environments such as leaf litter, under wood debris, and under rocks. These detritivores primarily consume dead organic matter like moss, bark, algae, fungi, and decaying wood, playing a vital role in enriching the soil and promoting healthy plant growth.
Popular Isopod Species in the Exotic Pet Trade:
Keeping Isopods in Captivity:
Conclusion
Isopods are not only fascinating creatures but also valuable contributors to their ecosystems. As pets, they offer an easy-to-care-for option for invertebrate enthusiasts, while their role as decomposers in bioactive terrariums helps maintain a healthy environment for reptiles and amphibians.
Monitor Eating Habits
It's possible your bearded dragon is eating greens without you noticing. Offer smaller salads and consider using a motion-triggered webcam to observe their eating habits. Regularly monitoring their consumption can help you identify any changes in their diet and address potential issues early.
Account for Age
Young bearded dragons under one year may prefer insects for growth. Continue offering greens daily to familiarize them with the food. Gradually increasing the proportion of leafy greens in their diet as they grow older can help ease them into a more balanced diet.
Offer Variety
Introduce a wide range of nutritious greens to keep your bearded dragon's diet interesting. Some ideal leafy greens for bearded dragons include:
Collard greens
Dandelion greens
Mustard greens
Turnip greens
Bok choy
Endive
Escarole
Kale (in moderation due to high oxalate content)
Watercress
Arugula
Experiment with different vegetables, herbs, and flowers to encourage them to eat greens. Some bearded dragons may have preferences for specific greens, so trying a variety can help you identify their favorites.
Chop and Mix Greens
Chopping or shredding leafy greens and mixing them with their favorite insects or vegetables can make the greens more appealing. Over time, you can gradually reduce the amount of insects or preferred vegetables in the mix, allowing the bearded dragon to develop a taste for the greens.
Sprinkle Bee Pollen
Using bee pollen as a topping on leafy greens can entice your bearded dragon to eat them. Bee pollen is a natural and nutritious supplement that many bearded dragons find irresistible. Lightly sprinkle it on top of the greens to encourage your pet to explore and consume the salad. You can find Bee Pollen here.
Create a Feeding Schedule
Establishing a consistent feeding schedule can help your bearded dragon adapt to eating leafy greens. Offering greens at the same time each day and providing insects on a set schedule can help your pet understand when to expect their meals, making it more likely they'll eat the greens.
Implement Tough Love
If your bearded dragon remains uninterested in greens, it may be overfed. Reduce insect feedings for adult bearded dragons, as they should only consume insects as 15% of their diet. With time, hunger may drive them to eat greens.
Keep an Eye on Your Bearded Dragon's Health
As you implement these strategies, monitor your bearded dragon's weight, growth, and overall wellbeing. Ensuring your pet is healthy and adjusting well to the changes in their diet is essential. If you notice any concerning signs, consult a reptile veterinarian immediately.
Conclusion
In conclusion, while it can be challenging to get your bearded dragon to eat vegetables, a balanced diet is crucial for their health and longevity. Patience and persistence are key when introducing new foods to your bearded dragon's diet. If your dragon still refuses to eat, review your husbandry practices and consult a reptile veterinarian.
Complete Gecko Diet (CGD) A commercial powder mix called "Complete Gecko Diet" (CGD) has been formulated to provide all the essential nutrients that crested geckos need, including fat, protein, vitamins, and minerals. The CGD is mixed with water and placed in a small condiment cup in the gecko's enclosure three or four times a week. Some products have dried insects added to them, which is recommended. It's crucial to purchase a complete gecko diet rather than a supplement.
While CGD can be the sole food source for crested geckos, supplementing their diet with live insects ensures optimum health. Live feeders should be added to the gecko's diet two or three times a week, dusted with calcium plus D3 and gut-loaded using salad or a prepared supplement.
Safe feeder insects for crested geckos include: Staples (2-3 times per week):
Treats (Once per week):
Avoid feeding your gecko wild-caught insects as they may contain pesticides, parasites, or diseases. Always purchase feeder insects from a reputable supplier like Got Feeders.
Crested geckos hydrate by licking droplets from their enclosure's glass or accessories. Misting the sides of the enclosure and accessories daily is essential for maintaining proper hydration. Aim to keep water droplets available for your gecko at all times in their habitat.
]]>If you're feeding your adult leopard gecko too frequently, they might start being selective about their food. A hungry reptile is less likely to be picky, as they need to eat whatever is available in the wild to survive. Adjusting your feeding schedule and occasionally skipping a meal can encourage your gecko to eat a wider variety of food.
Excess Bug Quantity
Offering too many bugs per feeding can also contribute to pickiness. It's essential to provide the appropriate amount of bugs, depending on your gecko's size. Offer two bugs per inch of your gecko's length, with each bug being slightly smaller than their head or an equivalent amount of smaller feeders. By managing the quantity of bugs, you can prevent your leopard gecko from becoming too picky.
Overindulging in Treats
Leopard geckos, like any other pet, love treats. However, giving them high-fat treats too often can make them lose interest in healthier foods. To maintain your gecko's interest in a balanced diet, limit treats to once a week. For a more interactive experience, try hand-feeding your gecko instead of simply placing insects in their enclosure. This allows you to bond with your pet while ensuring they don't become too picky.
Lack of Dietary Variety
Feeding your leopard gecko the same insects and mealworms repeatedly can lead to two possible outcomes: they may become uninterested in eating, or they might be unwilling to try new foods. Either way, a limited diet can result in nutritional deficiencies. To ensure balanced nutrition, introduce a variety of feeders like hornworms, silkworms, dubia roaches, discoids, and black soldier fly larvae.
Remember, each leopard gecko is unique, and they might have personal preferences. If your pet consistently rejects certain food items, even after removing their favorite options, it's time to try something different.
Illness
Leopard geckos are experts at hiding signs of illness, which is an advantageous trait in the wild but can be problematic for pet owners. Sudden appetite loss or pickiness may indicate that your gecko isn't feeling well. If none of the above solutions work, review your gecko's husbandry to ensure proper care, including temperature, UVB lamps, and other factors.
If you're unable to find an explanation, it's important to consult an experienced reptile veterinarian for a thorough examination.
Conclusion
Understanding the reasons behind your leopard gecko's picky eating habits and making necessary adjustments can help ensure a healthier and more diverse diet for your pet. Regularly monitor your gecko's eating habits, weight, and overall health. Keep researching and seeking advice from experienced leopard gecko owners, forums, and veterinarians to provide the best possible care for your beloved reptile companion.
Upon bringing your new leopard gecko home, it is essential to give them a few days to adjust to their new environment before handling them. This adjustment period helps minimize the stress associated with relocating and ensures a smoother transition for your gecko.
Establishing trust through gentle communication
To further establish trust with your leopard gecko, talking to them gently and calmly will help them become familiar with your voice and presence. This familiarity will eventually lead to your gecko seeing you as a source of comfort and safety, fostering a friendly and trusting relationship between you and your pet.
Conclusion
Overall, leopard geckos make excellent pets for those interested in reptiles. Their intriguing personalities, the opportunity for interaction, and their impressive lifespan make them an appealing choice for pet owners looking for a unique and engaging companion.
Signs of Reptile Dehydration Dehydration in reptiles can lead to various symptoms and health issues, including wrinkled skin, shedding problems, sunken eyes, loss of appetite, and even organ failure. Contrary to popular belief, humidity isn't inherently harmful to desert reptiles, and providing water doesn't necessarily cause respiratory infections. These issues are more likely to result from low temperatures, unhygienic conditions, or inadequate ventilation.
Understanding Natural Humidity Levels
Wild bearded dragons and leopard geckos experience a wide range of humidity levels in their natural habitat. For instance, wild bearded dragons can encounter humidity levels between 55-65% at dawn and dusk, 20-30% around midday, and even 75-80% at night or inside burrows. Similarly, leopard geckos in Islamabad, Pakistan, can tolerate humidity levels between 41% and 74% throughout the year.
Best Practices
Preventing dehydration in desert reptiles to ensure the well-being of desert reptiles, follow these hydration best practices:
Conclusion
In Conclusion dehydration is a widespread issue among desert reptiles due to misconceptions and misinformation. While it's crucial not to treat them like tropical species, providing water and proper humidity levels is essential for their health. By following these best practices, you can prevent dehydration-related health problems and ensure a happy, healthy life for your desert reptile.
"Central Bearded Dragon" by qmmr is marked with CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
Bearded Dragon Diet Basics
Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they require both animal and plant-based foods to stay healthy. The dragon's age will determine the proportion of vegetation and protein they need.
It's crucial to offer young dragons vegetables even if they refuse to eat them at first, as they won't always adhere to their dietary requirements automatically. Gut-loading feeder insects with vegetables can help ensure your dragon consumes the necessary nutrients.
Insects form a significant part of a bearded dragon's diet. Here's a list of suitable feeder insects:
Avoid feeding wild-caught insects, as they may carry diseases or parasites and may have been exposed to pesticides.
Dubia Roaches vs. Crickets
Dubia roaches and crickets are two common feeder insects, each with their pros and cons. Dubia roaches offer more nutrition per insect and are cleaner, whereas crickets are easier to find and less likely to be off-putting to some people. Ultimately, the choice will depend on your preference and your bearded dragon's tastes.
Vegetables are an essential part of your dragon's diet. Here's a list of safe vegetables for your bearded dragon:
Fruits should only make up around a fifth of your bearded dragon's daily salad due to their high moisture and sugar content. Here's a list of safe fruits for your bearded dragon:
Avoid citrus fruits due to their high acidity levels, which can harm your dragon's stomach. Always do thorough research before feeding your dragon any fruit not listed above.
General Warnings About Feeding Bearded Dragons
When feeding your dragon, consider the substrate used in their habitat. Particulate substrates like sand or walnut shell can be ingested, leading to impaction – a potentially serious blockage in the digestive tract. To minimize this risk, house young dragons on non-particulate substrates like slate tile, reptile carpet, or non-adhesive shelf liner.
By providing your bearded dragon with a balanced diet of insects, vegetables, and fruits, you can ensure their optimal health and well-being. Keep this comprehensive guide in mind when planning your dragon's meals, and always consult a veterinarian or expert if you have concerns about their dietary needs.
Here are a few more tips to ensure your bearded dragon receives proper nutrition:
Size matters: When feeding insects, make sure they're no larger than the space between your bearded dragon's eyes. Larger insects can be difficult to digest and lead to impaction.
Supplements: Dust insects with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements to support bone health, especially for younger dragons. Consult your veterinarian for the appropriate frequency and dosage.
Gut-loading insects: Prior to feeding insects to your bearded dragon, gut-load them with nutritious vegetables and fruits for 24 hours. This enhances their nutritional value for your dragon.
Feeding frequency: Young dragons require more frequent feedings, typically 2-3 times per day. Adult dragons can be fed once per day, with insects offered every other day.
Monitor weight and growth: Regularly monitor your dragon's weight and growth to ensure they're receiving proper nutrition. Consult your veterinarian if you notice any sudden changes in weight or health.
Hydration: Bearded dragons need access to fresh water. Provide a shallow water dish, and mist their vegetables with water to increase hydration.
Variety: Offer a variety of insects, vegetables, and fruits to keep your dragon's diet interesting and balanced.
By following these tips and maintaining a proper diet, your bearded dragon will thrive and live a healthy, happy life. Keep learning and seeking advice from experienced bearded dragon owners, forums, and veterinarians to ensure you're providing the best possible care for your scaly companion.
]]>Gentle and Tame Temperament
Bearded dragons are known for their friendly and mild temperament, making them easy to handle and care for. They may not be cuddly like a cat or dog, but their calm demeanor makes them ideal companions for those looking for a low-maintenance pet.
Simple Care Requirements
As long as you've set up the proper environment for your bearded dragon, including appropriate temperature range, lighting, UVB exposure, and diet, they are relatively easy to care for. It's essential to keep them well-fed, hydrated, and housed in a clean, spacious habitat. Regular socialization with humans will also ensure they remain tame and friendly.
Impressive Lifespan
In the wild, bearded dragons typically live for 5-7 years. However, in captivity, they can thrive well into their late teens with proper care. This longevity makes them a fantastic long-term family pet.
Perfect Size for Handling
Bearded dragons grow to an average length of 18-22 inches, making them neither too big nor too small for handling. Providing them with the correct lighting conditions will ensure they absorb essential nutrients from their food and grow healthily.
Interactive and Social
While bearded dragons need to spend most of their time in their tank under appropriate lighting, they can still safely come out and socialize for a few hours per day. You can hold them, let them explore their environment, or watch them interact with the world around them. These activities can be entertaining for the whole family and help strengthen the bond between you and your bearded dragon.
Conclusion
In conclusion, bearded dragons are fantastic pets for reptile enthusiasts of all ages and experience levels. With their gentle temperament, manageable size, and long lifespan, they make excellent companions. Just remember to provide them with the proper care and environment to ensure their health and happiness. If you're ready to welcome a bearded dragon into your home, research reputable breeders and be prepared to create a comfortable and suitable habitat for your new scaly friend.
What is Gout in Bearded Dragons?
Gout is a painful and debilitating condition that can affect bearded dragons as well as humans. In bearded dragons, gout is a common health problem seen in the US, and it is caused by the accumulation of uric acid crystals in the joints, organs, and sometimes mucus membranes.
Factors that Contribute to the Development of Gout
Several factors can contribute to the development of gout in bearded dragons, including a diet high in animal protein and/or purines, dehydration, starvation, obesity, kidney disease/failure, and genetic predisposition. To prevent gout, it is important to take steps to help your bearded dragon's body process uric acid effectively.
How to Prevent Gout in Bearded Dragons
One of the best ways to prevent gout in bearded dragons is through proper nutrition. A balanced diet of insects and vegetables appropriate for their age is crucial. Hatchlings should receive 60-80% of their diet from feeder insects, juveniles 60%, and adults 15-30%. To avoid nutritional imbalance, it is recommended to use a rotation of as many different types of feeder insects as possible.
Gut-Loading Feeder Insects Correctly
To gutload your feeder insects correctly, provide them with plant-based foods that have a low protein content of 12% or less. Avoid high-protein foods such as dog food, cat food, fish flakes, or carnivore/insectivore meal replacement powders at all costs. Instead, consider using low-protein insect gutloads such as Got Feeders Chow, Arcadia InsectFuel, or Repashy Bug Burger.
The Role of Obesity in Gout Development
Obesity increases the risk of gout in bearded dragons, so it is best to avoid overfeeding and provide a healthy balance of insects and vegetables. It's also important to monitor your bearded dragon's weight with a kitchen scale. Adult bearded dragons should not consistently gain weight unless they are cycling eggs.
If you suspect that your bearded dragon may have gout, it's important to get them to an experienced reptile veterinarian for formal diagnosis before taking further action. The vet visit will likely involve x-rays, a blood test, and/or a biopsy of fluid from the affected joint. If your dragon is diagnosed with gout, they will receive a prescription medication that will help mitigate the symptoms.
Once gout has taken hold in your bearded dragon, however, there is no cure. You can only take measures to reduce discomfort and slow the gout's progress. Eventually, they will likely need to be euthanized when the pain becomes unmanageable.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the best way to deal with gout is to understand how it happens and take measures to prevent it through good husbandry. If you suspect that your bearded dragon has already developed gout, get them to an experienced reptile vet as soon as possible to help ensure the best outcome possible.
Got Feeders approach to preventing grain mite infestation
We at Got Feeders keep all our grain products in a large freezer for a few days to kill off any grain mites that may be on the grain and vacuum seal the Feeder Chow we sell compared to many other sellers that don’t use any method to discourage grain mites from being attracted to the grains. This of course isn’t a foolproof method and may still occasionally happen, however following the above steps will help drastically reduce the probability of them breeding and becoming a problem.
Conclusion
In conclusion, grain mites are a serious problem for stored grain products. Proper storage, cleaning and sanitation, heat and cold treatment are all effective methods for eliminating these pests and protecting your stored grain products.
The first step in eliminating fruit flies from your Dubia roach colony is to locate and remove the source of the infestation. This could be rotting fruits, vegetables, or a buildup of organic matter in the enclosure (dead dubia roaches). Be sure to thoroughly clean the enclosure and dispose of any rotting or moldy food.
Next, you can use traps to capture and eliminate the fruit flies. A simple and effective trap can be made by filling a small container with apple cider vinegar or wine and covering it with plastic wrap. Punch a few small holes in the wrap, and the fruit flies will be attracted to the smell and get trapped inside. You can also use commercial fruit fly traps that you can purchase from pet stores or online.
Another controversial method for controlling fruit flies is to use a pesticide specifically designed for them. We highly suggest never using pesticides as most are engineered to not only kill the fruit flies but are often marketed and used for eliminating other insects which includes roaches.
In addition to these methods, it is important to keep a clean and tidy environment for your Dubia roach colony. This means regularly cleaning the enclosure, removing any dead roaches or other debris, and keeping the temperature and humidity levels within the appropriate range.
An effective way of keeping a colony clean with lower maintenance required on your part is the use of Buffalo beetles in colonies, you can read more about them here.
Finally, keep windows and doors closed, if possible, to prevent fruit flies from entering your home. You can also consider installing window screens or door sweeps to keep fruit flies out.
In conclusion, fruit flies can be a major problem for Dubia roach colonies, but with proper cleaning, and trapping, you can effectively eliminate them and keep your colony healthy and happy. Remember, with persistence and the proper methods, you can greatly reduce their numbers.
]]>Buffalo beetles are small, dark-colored beetles that are commonly found in the wild. They are also known as Alphitobius diaperinus and are a natural form of pest control. These beetles will feed on any mold or fungus that may grow in the enclosure, as well as any dead roaches, which helps to keep the colony clean and healthy. This helps to ensure that the colony remains healthy and produces high-quality feeder insects.
Another benefit of using buffalo beetles is that they are low-maintenance and easy to care for. Unlike other pest control methods, buffalo beetles do not require any special care or feeding. They can be introduced to the Dubia roach colony and left to do their job. This makes it an easy and convenient way to maintain a healthy Dubia roach colony.
It's important to note that buffalo beetles reproduce quickly, so it's important to keep an eye on the population and remove any excess beetles to prevent them from becoming a problem themselves. A good rule of thumb is to have at least two times as many buffalo beetles as Dubia roaches in the colony. This will ensure that the beetles have enough food to survive, but not so many that they become a problem.
Buffalo beetles compared to Dermestid beetles which are often thought to be the same since they look very similar, they have one main key difference. Dermestid beetles can fly when temperatures are around or above 70 Fahrenheit. Which of course makes them more of a problem compared to Buffalo beetles that don’t fly regardless of temperature. This is why we personally choose Buffalo beetles.
In conclusion, buffalo beetles are a great natural form of pest control for Dubia roach colonies. They help to keep the colony clean and healthy by feeding on mold, fungus, and dead roaches. When used properly, buffalo beetles can be a valuable addition to any Dubia roach colony. They are easy to care for, reproduce quickly, and provide a variety of benefits that help to ensure a healthy and productive Dubia roach colony.
If you are interested in purchasing Buffalo beetles as an addition to your colony, you can purchase them from us here.
DUBIA MALE / FEMALE RATIO:
When breeding dubias and other species, you want to make sure your male to female ratios are correct. If you have too many males, you can over stress females by the male’s constant want to breed. Having to many males can also cause fights between other males which can be seen by distraught wings. But having to little males can possibly cause some of the females to not be bred. We do a ratio of 1:5 (Males:Females) which has worked best for us. However others find 1:3 (Males:Females) work for them. Both ratios will work depending on what your end goal is of breeding. We suggest trying out different ratios to see what best works for you.
HEATING / HUMIDITY:
Keeping your colony heated properly will help your breeding and baby population. We suggest keeping your colony between 85-90F as a hot side, and on the cool side having around 75F. You can accomplish this by using Heat Tape, by using a under tank heating pad, or by heating the whole space you are keeping your colony. Humidity is important when breeding dubias, due to when males and females molt into the last stage of life, many males will have distraught wings from molt due to humidity issues. We recommend a minimum of 40% humidity which may be your normal humidity depending on where you live.
OFF SPRING:
Pregnant female dubias will often have babies varying from 10-30 occasionally higher or lower depending on age. Each Pregnant female generally gives birth every 30-40 days again depending on age and how fast the impregnation happened.
CLEANING:
When breeding dubias we suggest disturbing them as little as possible. This reduces stress and increases overall health and “confidence” of the colony. If the colony is constantly disturbed, this may reduce breeding and overall lifespan of your colony. We suggest cleaning colonies every 1-3 months depending on size of the colony.
BASICS:
What is a dubia roach? Dubia roaches which can also be referred to as Blaptica dubia or Tropical Spotted Roach. These roaches can be found in nature in Central and South America beginning in Costa Rica. Nymphs are referred to the babies. Adult males will have large wings on their back and females will have stripped backs with very small wings.
HOUSING:
First you will need a container to house them. A good candidate is a plastic bin with smooth surfaces. Dubia roaches cannot climb anything smooth. Depending on the amount you have, the Smaller-Larger size of a container you will need. Good choices can be a 5 qt plastic container, upwards of much larger sizes.
Dubia roaches will do just fine at room temperature in most households. (Average U.S households’ temperature is 68-76 degrees). Humidity should be around 40%, but this is not as important unless you are breeding your own.
Next you will need to fill the container with essential items that will benefit you and your feeders. You can increase the surface area of inside your container by using egg flats, or any corrugated cardboard (But just note that using any cardboard tends to break down faster).
FOOD AND WATER
Best way to keep you feeders hydrated is by using Water Crystals. This is due to the water being able to be in a solid state for them to eat, which doesn’t risk of drowning and is much easier to keep your feeder’s environment clean.
For feeding we offer daily our Feeder Chow which we make sure they have access to everyday. Our feeder chow and a mix of fruits and vegetables can ensure a proper diet for your feeder which will help gut load them to benefit the animal you are feeding it to.
You can keep both in separate plastic containers that the feeders have easy access to. We use our feeder dishes without the top plastic rim. Both Small and Large bowls can be found by clicking on the size.
CARE ITEMS FOR DUBIA ROACHES:
Small smooth plastic container
Water Crystals
Feeder Chow
Cardboard or egg cartons
Small food / water bowls
Dwarf Species (Colloquial Classification)
We consider Dwarf Isopods to be suitable for all tropical & temperate enclosures which have fairly moist (not necessarily wet) substrate, and a minimum of 50% relative humidity. In addition to being kept as pets & utilized as detritivores within live vivarium environments, these dwarf species are sometimes offered as feeders for small insectivores. Dwarf varieties seem to reproduce fastest when kept between 70-80F, but they will survive in both higher and lower temperatures.
Porcellio(Genus)
We consider this species an excellent choice for all temperate & tropical live vivarium’s (50-95% relative humidity) which house medium or large inhabitants. (Over 6-7in long) We keep these between 70-84F, and provide a slightly moist substrate at all times. It's especially important to provide a source of leaf litter when keeping this species, since hungry individuals can sometimes turn on live plants when their preferred food source runs short.
Armadillidium (Genus)
Unlike our smaller varieties, these reproduce significantly slower and are far less common in the hobby. Although they perform the same function as any other Isopod we carry in a live vivarium environment, Armadillidium species seem to be more commonly kept as pets by invertebrate enthusiasts. If they'll be used as a detritivore within a vivarium designed for another primary inhabitant, we strongly recommend allowing extra time to ensure they can establish a large enough population.
Porcellio Dilatatus – Giant Canyon Isopods:
Keep population density low for growing large individuals and for breeding.
Temp: 75-85 Degrees F.
Food: Dried Leaves and Fish Flakes
Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding and Leaf Litter.
Humidity: Moderate 50-60%
Porcellionides Pruinosus - Powder Blue / Powder Orange Isopods:
Temp: 68 to 80 Degrees F.
Food: Dried Leaves and Fish Flakes
Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding and Leaf Litter.
Humidity: Humid 80-90%
Armadillidium Maculatum - Zebra Isopods:
Temp: 75-85 Degrees F.
Food: Dried Leaves and Fish Flakes
Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding and Leaf Litter.
Humidity: Drier, but moist area
Trichorhina Tomentosa – Dwarf White Isopods:
Temp: 80-85 Degrees F.
Food: Dried Leaves and Fish Flakes
Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding and Leaf Litter.
Humidity: Humid 80-90%
Cubaris sp. – Rubber Ducky Isopods:
Temp: 70-78 Degrees F.
Food: Dried Leaves and Fish Flakes
Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding and Leaf Litter.
Humidity: Moderate 50-60%
Small Reptiles:
Reptiles that are 2-3 inches max by adulthood, which are sometimes under one inch long when born. These reptiles by tradition are fed pinhead or slightest larger crickets, or fruit flies. The perfect size for these reptiles would be newly born dubia nymphs.
Medium Reptiles:
Animals in this range include bearded dragons, leopard geckos and crested geckos. Which vary in size from 4-24” long. These reptiles regardless of age can be fed dubias throughout their life. This means newborn nymphs which are 1/8” to older adult size of 1 ½ - 2”. Most reptiles of this size range primarily depend on insects for a healthy diet.
Large Reptiles:
These animals include monitors and tegus, which when adults can reach up to 4-5+ feet long. While these animals require a diet of insects, vegetables and fruits, dubia roaches are a great option to be the main insect for your animals needs.
Arboreal Reptiles:
Dubia roaches are a great option as they don’t climb smooth surfaces. However, they will stay on the bottom of the enclosure but will tend to hide or burrow underneath enclosure décor or substrate. Many keepers of these animals will use smooth walled bowls that can be attached to the side or just placed on the bottom of the enclosure. You can purchase both Small Bowls and Large Bowls by clicking on the text. Most arboreal reptiles will develop habits to regularly check areas of which bowls are offered.
What if my pet is not a reptile?
That’s okay! A lot of our customers have other uses for these feeder insects. This includes arachnids (scorpions, tarantulas).
Fish both for fishing and to be fed to pet fish including fish with a high protein and prey drive. Amphibians (axolotls, newts, salamanders and of course frogs).
Birds (Chickens, conures, parrots)